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Of the city’s many gingerbread Victorians, this handsome Queen Anne house is one of the most flamboyant. The 1886 structure features all the architectural frills of the period, including dormer windows, flying cupolas, ornate trim, and winsome turrets. The elaborately styled house is now a museum, its rooms fully furnished with period pieces. The Foundation for San Francisco’s Architectural Heritage maintains the house and offers docent-led tours. The 1-hour tours (the only way to see the house) start every 20 to 30 minutes. A costume exhibit features such themes as Ragtime-era costumes, artifacts, and accessories.

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The torch of freedom passed from the Beats and North Beach to the hippies and Haight-Ashbury, but it was a radically different torch. The hippies replaced the Beats’ angst, anarchy, negativism, nihilism, alcohol, and poetry with love, communalism, openness, drugs, rock music, and a back-to-nature philosophy. Although the scent of marijuana wafted everywhere- on the streets, in the cafes, in Golden Gate Park- the real drugs of choice were LSD (a tab of good acid cost $5) and the other hallucinogenics. Timothy Leary experimented with its effects and exhorted youth to “turn on, tune in, and drop out.” Instead of hanging out in coffeehouses, the hippies went to concerts at the Fillmore or the Avalon Ballroom to dance. The first Family Dog Rock ‘n’ Roll Dance and Concert, “A Tribute to Dr. Strange,” was at the Longshoremen’s Hall in 1965. It featured Jefferson Airplane, the Marbles, the Great Society, and the Charlantans. At the event, the first major happening of the 1960s, Ginsberg led a snake dance through the crowd. In January 1966, Longshoremen’s Hall was the site of the 3-day Trips Festival, organized by rock promoter Bill Graham. The climax was the Ken Kesey and the Merry Pranksters Acid Test show, which used five movie screens, psychedelic visions, and the sounds of the Grateful Dead and Big Brother and the Holding Company. The “be-in” followed in the summer of 1966 at the polo grounds in Golden Gate Park, when an estimated 20,000 heard Jefferson Airplane perform and Ginsberg chant, while the Hell’s Angels acted as unofficial police. During the Summer of Love, in 1967, thousands of young people streamed into the city in search of drugs and sex.

One way that the ’60s Haight scene was very different from the ’50s Beat scene was that the hippies were much younger than the Beats had been, constituting the first youth movement to take over the nation. (They also became the first generation of young, independent, and moneyed consumers to be courted by corporations.)

Ultimately, the Haight and the hippie movement deteriorated from love and flowers into drugs and crime, drawing a fringe of crazies like Charles Manson and leaving a legacy of sex, drugs, violence, and consumerism. As early as October 1967, the “Diggers,” who had opened a free shop and soup kitchen in the Haight, symbolically buried the dream in a clay casket in Buena Vista Park.

The end of the Vietnam War and the resignation of then-President Richard Nixon took the edge off politics. The last fling of the mentality that had driven the 1960s occurred in 1974, when the Symbionese Liberation Army kidnapped newspaper heiress Patty Hearst from her Berkeley apartment and took her on a bank-robbing spree before surrendering in San Francisco.

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San Francisco’s reputation as a rollicking place where anything goes dates from the Barbary Coast days when gang warfare, prostitution, gambling, and drinking were major pursuits, and citizens took law and order into their own hands. Its more modern role as a catalyst for social change and the avant-garde began in the 1950s. A group of young writers, philosophers, and poets challenged the materialism and conformity of American society by embracing anarchy and Eastern philosophy, expressing their notions in poetry. They adopted a uniform of jeans, sweaters, sandals, and berets, called themselves “Beats,” and hung out in North Beach, where rents were low and cheap wine was plentiful. San Francisco Chronicle columnist Herb Caen, to whom they were totally alien, dubbed them “beatniks” in his column.

Allen Ginsberg, Gregory Corso, and Jack Kerouac had begun writing at Columbia University in New York, but it wasn’t until they came West and hooked up with Lawrence Ferlinghetti, Kenneth Rexroth, Gary Snyder, and others that the movement gained national attention. The bible of the Beats was Ginsberg’s “Howl,” which he first read at the Six Gallery on October 13, 1955. By the time he finished reading, Ginsberg was crying, the audience was chanting, and his fellow poets were announcing the arrival of an epic bard. Ferlinghetti published “Howl,” which was deemed obscene, in 1956. A trial followed, but the court found that the poem had redeeming  social value, reaffirming the right of free expression. Another major Beat work. Kerouac’s On the Road, was published in 1957 and instantly became a bestseller. (He had written it as one long paragraph in 20 days in 1951.) The freedom and sense of possibility the book conveyed became the bellwether for a generation.

While the Beats gave poetry readings and generated controversy, two clubs in North Beach were also making waves, notably the hungry i and the Purple Onion, where everyone who was anyone or became anyone on the entertainment scene appeared. Mort Sahl, Dick Gregory, Lenny Bruce, Barbra Streisand, and Woody Allen all worked there. Maya Angelou appeared as a singer and dancer at the Purple Onion.

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The year 2004 marks the 67th birthday of possibly the most beautiful, and certainly the most photographed, bridge in the world. Often half-veiled by the city’s trademark rolling fog, San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge spans tidal currents, ocean waves, and battering winds to connect the City by the Bay with the Redwood Empire to the north.

With its gracefully swung single span, spidery bracing cables, and zooming twin towers, the bridge looks more like a work of abstract art than one of the 20th century’s greatest practical engineering feats. Construction was completed  in May 1937 at the then-colossal cost of $35 million.

The mile-long steel link (longer if you factor in the approach), which reaches a height of 746 feet above the water, is an awesome bridge to cross. Traffic usually moves quickly, so crossing by car won’t give you too much time to see the sights. If you drive from the city, park in the lot at the foot of the bridge on the city side and make the crossing by foot. Back in your car, continue to Marin’s Vista Point, at the bridge’s northern end. Look back, and you’ll be rewarded with one of the greatest views of San Francisco.

Millions of pedestrians walk or bike across the bridge each year, gazing up at the tall red towers, out at the vistas of San Francisco and Marin Country, and down into the stacks of oceangoing liners. You can walk out onto the span from either end, but be prepared- it’s usually windy and cold, and the bridge vibrates. Still, walking even a short distance is one of the best ways to experience the immense scale of the structure.

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Ghirardelli Square dates from 1864, when it served as a factory making Civil War uniforms. It’s best known as the former chocolate ans spice factory of Domingo Ghirardelli (pronounced “Gear-a-deli”). The factory has since been converted into a three-level mall containing 50-plus stores and 11 dining establishments.  Scheduled street performers entertain regularly in the West Plaza. Incidentally, the Ghirardelli Chocolate Company still makes chocolate, but its factory is in a lower-rent district in the East Bay. Still, if you have a sweet tooth, you won’t be disappointed at the mall’s fantastic old-fashioned soda foundation.

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Although the magnificent California redwoods have been successfully transplanted to five continents, their homeland is a 500-mile strip along the mountainous coast of southwestern Oregon and Northern California. The coast redwood, or Sequoia sempervirens, is the tallest tree in the immediate region; the largest known specimen in the Redwood National Forest towers 368 feet. It has an even larger relative, the Sequoiadendron giganteum of the California Sierra Nevada, but the coastal variety is stunning enough. Soaring toward the sky like a wooden cathedral, Muir Woods is unlike any other forest in the world and an experience you won’t soon forget.

Granted, Muir Woods is tiny compared to the Redwood National Forest farther north, but you can still get a pretty good idea of what it must have been like when these giants dominated the entire coastal region.

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When headed to any part of the Point Reyes coast, expect to spend the day surrounded by nature at its finest; however, bear in mind that as beautiful as the wilderness can be, it’s also untamable. The bone-chilling waters in these areas are not only home to a vast array of sea life, including sharks, but are unpredictable and dangerous. There are no lifeguards on duty, and swimming is strongly discouraged because of the waves and rip tides. Pets are not permitted on any of the area’s trails.

By far the most popular- and crowded- attraction at Point Reyes National Seashore is the venerable Point Reyes Lighthouse, at the westernmost tip of Point Reyes. Even if you plan to forgo the 308 steps to the lighthouse itself, the area is still worth a visit. The dramatic scenery includes thousands of common murres and prides of sea lions that bask on the rocks far below (binoculars come in handy).

The lighthouse is also the top spot on the California coast from which to observe gray whales as they make their southward and northward migrations along the coast January through April. The annual round-trip is 10,000 miles- one of the longest mammal migrations known. The whales head south in December and January and return north in March.

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Point Reyes is only 30 miles northwest of San Francisco, but it takes at least 90 minutes to reach by car (it’s all the small towns, not the topography, that slow you down). The easiest route is Sir Francis Drake Boulevard from Highway 101 south of San Rafael; it takes its bloody time getting to Point Reyes, but it does so without any detours. For a much longer but more scenic route, take the Stinson Beach/Highway 1 exit off Highway 101 just south of Sausalito and follow Highway 1 north.

As soon as you arrive at Point Reyes, stop at the Bear Valley Visitor Center on Bear Valle Road  (look for the small sign just north of Olema on Hwy. 1) and pick up a free Point Reyes trail map. The rangers are extremely friendly and helpful and can answer any questions about the National Seashore. Be sure to check out the great natural-history and cultural displays while you’re there. The center is open weekdays from 9am to 5pm, weekends from 8am to 5pm.

Entrance to the park is free. Camping is $12 per site per night, and permits are required. Reservations can be made up to 3 months in advance by calling 415/663-8054 Monday through Friday from 9am to 2 pm.

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The National Seashore system was created to protect rural and undeveloped stretches of the coast from the pressures brought by soaring real-state values and increasing population. Nowhere is the success of the system more evident than at Point Reyes. Residents of the surrounding towns- Inverness,  Point Reyes Station, and Olema- have steadfastly resisted runaway development. You won’t find any strip malls or fast-food joints here, just laid-back coastal towns with cafes and country inns, where gentle living prevails.

Although the peninsula’s people and wildlife live in harmony above the ground, the situation beneath the soil is much more volatile. The infamous San Andreas Fault seperates Point Reyes – the northernmost landmass on the Pacific Plate – from the rest of California, which rests on the North American Plate. Point Reyes is making its way toward Alaska at a rate of about 2 inches per year, but at times it has moved much faster. In 1906, Point Reyes jumped north almost 20 feet in an instant, leveling San Francisco and jolting the rest of the state. The 1/2-mile Earthquake Trail, near the Bear Valley Visitor Center, illustrates this geological drama with a loop through an area torn by the slipping fault. Shattered fences, rifts in the ground, and a barn knocked off its foundation by the quake illustrate how alive the earth is. If that doesn’t convince you, a seismograph in the visitor center will.

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The birthplace of mountain biking, Mount Tam-as the locals call it-is the Bay Area’s favorite outdoor playground and the most dominant mountain in the region. Most every local has his or her secret trail and scenic overlook, as well as an opinion on the raging debate between mountain bikers and hikers (a touchy subject). The main trails-mostly fire roads-see a lot of foot and bicycle traffic on weekends, particularly on clear, sunny days when you can see a hundred miles in all directions, from the foothills of the Sierra to the western horizon. It’s a great place to escape from the city for a leisurely hike and to soak in breathtaking views of the bay.

To get to Mount Tamalpais by car, cross the Golden Gate Bridge heading north on Highway 101, and take the Stinson  Beach/Highway 1 exit. Follow the shoreline highway for about 2 1/2 miles, turn onto Pantoll Road, and continue for about a mile to Ridgecrest Boulevard. Ridgecrest winds to a parking lot below East Peak. From there, it’s a 15-minute hike up to the top.

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