Fortuna Cooks

Vintage Publications, 2929 Conifer Court, Napa, CA 94558 ( call 800/651-8953), to order just the guide, which costs $6, plus $3 for shipping within the United States. If you don’t want to pay the bucks for the official publications, point your browser to www.napavalley.com/nvcvb.html, the NVCVB’s official site, which has much of the same information for free.

WHEN TO GO The beauty of the valley is striking any time of the year, but it’s most memorable in September and October when the grapes are being pressed and the wineries are in full production. Another great time to come is the spring, when the mustard flowers are in full bloom and the tourist season hasn’t yet begun; you’ll find less traffic and fewer crowds at the wineries and restaurants, and better deals on hotel rooms. While winter is beautiful and promises the best budet rates, the vines are dormant and rain is likely, so bring appropriate shoes and an umbrella. Summer? Say hello to hot weather and lots of traffic.

TOURING THE VALLEY & WINERIES

The Napa Valley has more than 250 wineries, each offering distinct wines, atmosphere, and experience – so touring the valley takes a little planning. Decide what you’re most interested in and chart your path from there. Ask locals which vintners have the type of experience you’re looking for. Whatever you do, plan to visit no more than four or five wineries in one day. Above all, take it slowly. The wine Country should never be rushed; like a great glass of wine, it should be savored.

Most wineries offer tours daily from 10am to 5pm. Tours usually chart the process of wine making from the grafting and harvesting of the vines to the pressing of the grapes and the blending and aging of the wines in oak casks. They vary in length, detail, and formality, depending on the winery. Most tours are free.

The towns and wineries below are organized geographically, from south to north along calif. 29, from Napa village to Calistoga. We’ve included a handful of our favorites below; for a complete list of wineries, be sure to pick up one of the free guides to the valley (see “Essentials,” above).

THE TOWN OF NAPA

The village of Napa serves as the commercial center of the Wine Country and the gateway to Napa Valley. Most visitors whiz right past it on their way to the heart of the valley, but if you do veer off the highway, you’ll be surprised to discover a small but burgeoning community of 63,000 residents and some of the most affordable accommodations in the area. Unfortunately, any small-town charm Napa may exude is all but a squelched by the used-car lots and warehouse superstores surrounding the turn-of-the-century neighborhoods. Just a few minutes north of town, the real Wine Country atmosphere envelops you instantly.

Anyone with an appreciation of art absolutely must visit the ® di Rosa Preserve, which until recently was closed to the public. Rene and Veronica di Rosa, who have been collecting contemporary American art for more than 40 years, converted to 53 acres of prime Wine Country property into a monument of Northern California’s regional art and nature. Their world-renowned collection features 1,500 works in all media by more 600 Greater Bay Area Artists. Their treasures are displayed practically everywhere, from along the shores of their 30-acre lake to each nook and cranny of their 110-year-old winery-turned-residence, adjoining building, two new galleries, and gardens. With hundreds of surrounding acres of rolling hills protected under the Napa County Land Trust, this place is truly a must-see for bth art and nature lovers. It’s located at 5200 Sonoma Highway (California 121/12) – look for the blue colored gate. Visits are by appointment only, when a maximum of 25 guests are guided through the

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Fortuna Cooks

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Walking Tours ( call 800/281-9255 or 415/981-8989) takes you into nooks and crannies not usually seen by tourists. Each guide is intimately acquainted with all of Chinatown’s back ways, alleys and small businesses as well as the area’s history, folklore, culture, and food. Tours are conducted daily from 10am to 1:30pm and include a dim sum lunch. There’s also a less expensive tour that does not include lunch. It’s an easy walk, fun and fascinating, and you’re bound to make new friends. Groups are generally held to a maximum of 12, and reservations are essential. Prices (including lunch) are $37 for adults, $35 for seniors 60 and older, and $3 for children under 12.

Shirley Fong-Torres also operates an I Can’t Believe I Ate My Way Through Chinatown tour that starts with a Chinese breakfast in a noodle house, moves to a wokshop, and then makes further stops for nibbles at a vegetarian restaurant, rice-noodle factory, and a supermarket before taking a break for a sumptuous luncheon (most Saturdays; $65 per person), as well as a Walk & Wok tour that includes shopping for food in Chinatown, then cooking (and eating) it together at Shirley’s Cooking Center (most Saturdays; $75 per person).

NORTH BEACH CAFE SOIREE          Self-described “coffeehouse Lizard” Elaine Sosa leads Javawalk, a 2-hour walking tour. Aside from visiting cafes, javawalk also serves up a good share of historical and architectural trivia. Sosa keeps the tour interactive and fun, and it’s obvious that she knows a wealth of tales and trivia about the history of coffee and it’s North Beach roots. Tours are given Tuesday through Saturday at 10am. The prices is $20 for adults and $10 for kids 12 and under. For information and reservations, call 415/673-9255.

THE VICTORIAN LEGACY       Jay Gifford of Victorian Homes Historical Walking Tour 415/252-9485) and San Francisco resident of two decades, portrays his enthusiasm and love of San Francisco throughout this highly entertaining 2½ hour tour. Set at a very leisurely place, it incorporates a wealth of interesting knowledge about San Francisco’s Victorian architecture, as well as the city’s storied history – particularly the periods just before and after the great earthquake and fire of 1906. You’ll stroll through the neighborhoods of Japantown, the Western Addition (where you can take a break to cruise the trendy shop on Filmore Street), and onward to Pacific Heights and Cow Hollow. In the process you’ll see more than 200 meticulously restored Victorians, including the one where Mrs. Doubtfire was filmed. Jay’s guests often find they are the only ones on the quiet neighborhood streets, where tour buses are forbidden. The tour ends with a trolley ride back to Union Square, passing though North Beach and Chinatown. Tours, which start at Union Square at 11am, are offered daily year-round and cost $20 per person. Reservations are required. You can preview the tour at www.victorianwalk.com.

A TRIP BACK TO THE SUMMER OF LOVE       If you’re nostalgic for the 1960′s, the Haight-Ashbury Flower Power Walking Tour will take you to the cities hippie haunts, including the Grateful Dead’s crash pad and Janis Joplin’s house. Tours begin at 9:30am Tuesday and Saturday and cost $15 per person. For reservations, call 415/863-1621.

A LOOK AT THE CASTRO          For a totally new insight into the gay community’s contribution to the political maturity, growth, and beauty of San Francisco, contact Cruisin’ the Castro (415/550-8110). Tours are personally led by Ms. Trevor Hailey, who was involved in the development of the Castro in the 1970s and knew Harvey Milk – the first openly gay politician elected to office in the United States. Call for tour times, but expect to $40 for adults, $35 for seniors 62 and older, and a negotiable price for children 16 and under; the price includes lunch at one of the Castro’s restaurants.

Fortuna Cooks

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call Vintage Publications, 2929 Conifer Court, Napa, CA 94558 ( call 800/651-8953), to order just the guide, which costs $6, plus $3 for shipping within the United States. If you don’t want to pay the bucks for the official publications, point your browser to www.napavalley.com/nvcvb.html, the NVCVB’s official site, which has much of the same information for free.

WHEN TO GO    The beauty of the valley is striking any time of the year, but it’s most memorable in September and October when the grapes are being pressed and the wineries are in full production. Another great time to come is the spring, when the mustard flowers are in full bloom and the tourist season hasn’t yet begun; you’ll find less traffic and fewer crowds at the wineries and restaurants, and better deals on hotel rooms. While winter is beautiful and promises the best budet rates, the vines are dormant and rain is likely, so bring appropriate shoes and an umbrella. Summer? Say hello to hot weather and lots of traffic.

TOURING THE VALLEY & WINERIES
The Napa Valley has more than 250 wineries, each offering distinct wines, atmosphere, and experience – so touring the valley takes a little planning. Decide what you’re most interested in and chart your path from there. Ask locals which vintners have the type of experience you’re looking for. Whatever you do, plan to visit no more than four or five wineries in one day. Above all, take it slowly. The wine Country should never be rushed; like a great glass of wine, it should be savored.

Most wineries offer tours daily from 10am to 5pm. Tours usually chart the process of wine making from the grafting and harvesting of the vines to the pressing of the grapes and the blending and aging of the wines in oak casks. They vary in length, detail, and formality, depending on the winery. Most tours are free.

The towns and wineries below are organized geographically, from south to north along calif. 29, from Napa village to Calistoga. We’ve included a handful of our favorites below; for a complete list of wineries, be sure to pick up one of the free guides to the valley (see “Essentials,” above).

THE TOWN NAPA

The village of Napa serves as the commercial center of the Wine Country and the gateway to Napa Valley. Most visitors whiz right pass it on their way the to the heart of the valley, but if you do veer off the highway, you’ll be surprised to discover a small but burgeoning community of 63,000 residents and some of the most affordable accomodations in the area. Unfortunately, any small-town charm Napa may exude is all bu squelched by the used-car lots and warehouse superstores surrounding the turn-of-the-century neighborhoods. Just a few minutes north of town, the real Wine Country atmosphere envelops you instantly.

Anyone with an appreciation for art absolutely must visit the di Rosa Preserve, which until recently was close to the public. Rene and Veronica di Rosa, who have been collecting contemporary American art for more than 40 years, converted 53 acres of prime Wine Country property into a monument to northern California`s regional art and nature. Their world-renowned collection features 1,500 works in all media by more than 600 Greater Bay Area artists. Their treasures are displayed practically every where, from along the shores of their 30-acre lake to each nook and cranny of their 110-year-old winery-turned- residence, adjoining building, to new galleries, and gardens. With hundred of surrounding acres of rolling hills protected under the Napa Country Land Trust, this place is truly a must-see for both art and nature lovers. It`s located at 5200 Sonoma Hwy. (Calif. 121/12)—look for the blue-colored gate. Visits are by appointments only, when a maximum of 25 guests are guided through the

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