Fortuna Cooks

When Shopping:

• Whichever eggplant you choose, make sure that the skin is sleek, unblemished, and not shriveled, It should be taut and shiny.

• Although they are available year-round for the most part, they are best and more abundant in the late summer (or earlier in the hotter parts of the country).

When Cooking:

• To salt or not to salt, that is the question. The answer depends on three factors: the variety of eggplant, your personal taste preference, and the cooking method.

• Unsalted eggplants tend to drink up more oil than presalted and drained one Therefore, when frying, sauteeing, or grilling—all quick-cooking methods that can use lots of oil as well as concentrating any bitter flavors—we salt and drain first. With longer cooking, such as in stews, the bitterness usually evaporates, and so there is no need to salt.

• For salting and draining: Cut the eggplant into the desired shape: cubes, slices, or halves. Place in a stainless-steel or plastic strainer or colander, never aluminum. Place a bowl underneath to catch the draining liquid. Sprinkle all sides of the egg plant generoi1 with coarse salt and let it stand for 30 minutes, weighted down to help release the liquids. Rinse off the salt under cold running water, dry thoroughly on paper towels, and proceed with the recipe.

• When baking, stuffing, or roasting, keep the edible skins on to maintain the shape of the eggplant.

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