Fortuna Cooks

It was first grown for food in Southeast Asia; was transported by cargo ships to the Middle East, where eggplant then became a staple vegetable that could be cooked a different way on each of a thousand and one nights; and then went on to Europe and the New World. Its biological origin was the deadly nightshade family, as are tobacco, tomatoes, and potatoes.

No longer saddled with a bad reputation, it is probably among the most versatile of all vegetables, for no matter how you slice it, dice it, roast it, stew it, sauté it, or fry it, it is a satisfying and filling repast that takes well to a range of robust flavors. It is rightly called “the meat of vegetarians.”

There are a great many varieties from which to choose, and they come in a tempting chromatic color scale that ranges from white to lavender, striped to deep purple, in shapes that are long and slender to plump, and in sizes that vary from the smallest egg to a full 24 inches in length.

Baby Eggplant: These are young versions of all the others mentioned. Their youth assures a more delicate flavor, and they are usually available in 2-inch cylindrical shapes that weigh about 4 ounces each. The skin is tender, so cook and serve them whole.

Black Japanese: Also known as Nasu or Italian eggplant, this one is thinnerthan the Long Chinese and longer, about 5 to 7 inches. It has dark purple skin with tender flesh and a sweet, mild flavor. Try it fried, sautéed, or grilled.

Common European: The most familiar of the family—dark purple and globular or round, or an elongated cylindrical shape with a shiny, sleek, smooth, tough skin. It holds its shape well when roasted and has lots of seeds. The flesh is creamy and soft, making it excellent for purées, dips, salads, soups, and stuffed or baked.

Long Chinese: This can be a solid lavender color, striped with lavender and white, or solid purple. Small, thin, and gently curved, it has few seeds, a sweet flavor, and holds its shape well when cooked. Try it in vegetable stews such as ratatouille or roasted for salads.

White Eggplant: Mostly egg-shaped and sometimes with lavender stripes, these have very few seeds and the texture is pulpy. The flavor is very delicate. The skins are tough, and they need to be peeled before eating.

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